Category: OUCP702 Research Methods 1

This is working towards objective 1.

I came across this weekly magazine in my local CO-OP whilst waiting in a queue. I do not normally purchase such magazines, however felt obliged to purchase this in regards to research purposes. I saw the cover and was instantly taken back by the relevance in association to my research question, and more relevant, my current exploratory practical works and concepts focusing on the fashion and beauty industries and how they can unknowingly at times, affect our self-perception.

I have used Kylie Jenner as a focus throughout one of my initial projects being a natural progression from the success of initial one-off Instagram posts focusing on the power of her icon status and subsequent beauty brands, in turn influencing our self-perception through a following of almost 80m on Instagram, in addition to her app and TV shows for example.

Furthermore, the idea of competition within this article was intriguing, “Kylie tried to steal Kim’s crown” especially between two sisters, with Kylie in the photograph shown on the cover below, donning a Kim Kardashian ‘pose’ and donning a similar physique. At the same time, she is consciously pulling up her top to reveal her body, taking the photograph herself, showing how technology and media can drive a media storm making front page ‘news’. Being conscious of this Kylie is objectifying herself (self-objectification) knowing what sort of reaction she will receive from her following and the media alike. But does this self-objectification and narcissist trait perhaps, resonate with the ‘icon’ themselves that they are causing potential damage to those who view such imagery and articles, altering their perceptions and beliefs in turn? It is obvious that magazines such as Star, have no objection with objectifying, and showcasing women theirselves in order to gain sales.

Furthermore, as also touched on in my previous research and practice is the current fad of ‘lip fillers’ within the beauty and fashion industries, with celebrities, bloggers and icons alike seen with such augmentations. In addition to this, on the cover are also procedures such as ‘nose jobs’ and bottom implants. What I did notice however was that even though the headline “surgery shockers” at first appears quite negative, with the subtitles supporting this negativity in a sense of shock of ‘bad changes’ and bad perceptions. None of these procedures and the ‘finished looks’ have been seen as ‘beautiful’, ‘ideal’ or ‘perfect’ by the writers, and have instead been relayed with such terms as “destroyed her lips” and “wonky” suggesting to the reader, for once, that perhaps this is not such a good idea and infact can cause judgements and negative perceptions. Will this overtime impact on ones self-esteem through the gaze of others, leading to the self-surveying gaze to shine through and alter ones body again – but was this why the surgery was done in the first place? And are they changing due to feeling like they don’t fit in? This is resonant of Tafjel and Turner’s (1979) Identity theory where one may change their appearance to ‘fit in’ being “out-group”, and by making such changes to become “in-group” they feel as though they will be ‘accepted’. I believe that this is the same for celebrities and icons, feeling the need to compete and constantly comply with trends and the actions of those around them in-order to maintain a positive identity, and sense of positive self-perceptions. However, this as also noted in Taflej and Turner’s (1979) model that this cycle can cause depression, mental health issues, anxiety and eating disorders for example.

I feel looking at this cover alone, I have already noted Fredrickson and Robers (2008) Objectification and Self-Objectification theories, Tafjel and Turners’ (1979) Identity Theory, Shields (2013) Self-Surveying Gaze and Bem’s (1972) Self-Perception theory, and feel as though these can be relayed throughout the articles also noted below, but more importantly show how many issues, topics and debates can arise from only a very small segment of research and examples. I feel also that this cover alone evidences many of the points I have made, or am trying to raise through my current practice and research, and feel it is research and current examples such as this which evidence and satisfy my research question.

I am interested to compare such covers and articles to that of more ‘highbrow’ magazines to see comparatively how such topics of discussion are relayed in regards to both, copywriting and visuals.

I have made bullet points below in regards to the other scanned in articles, in relation to my research question, research to date and current practice.

Above – left page:

•  ‘Thigh-gap social media fad’ as noted in previous research in relation to Luisa Omielan and Anne Robert’s “Body Image Secrets” documentary, being explicitly showcased by Kylie Jenner due to her body positioning and pose.
• Competitive tone used in headline suggesting competition with one and other, even siblings, to be perceived as the ‘best’, ‘perfect’, ideal’ both in terms of figure, beauty and social media status.

Above:

• Highlights previous research and focus in practical work (Instagram posts/well being campaign proposal) on photo-manipulation using photoshop, filters and apps.
• This article notes the “fails” of doing-so which highlights to me how this could then alter one’s perception and self-perception through being exposed to having a different physique as put out for so long in the media, whilst using such editing methods can also be frowned upon by those who look unto icons, but then do it themselves, hinting also at double standards. This is also noted above in the article, “What a hypocrite! Telling young girls not to get plastic surgery yet she photoshops a photo to make herself look thinner”.
• “All this photoshopping just shows how inadequate they feel about themselves” is a quote from a ‘commenter’ quoted by Star, highlighting the points made above.
• Photoshopping and any form of photo-manipulation – does this highlight our insecurity of our identities and by making such changes one attempts to alter this in order to ‘fit in’ and be accepted?
• Highlights the heavily researched and discussed topic of ‘natural’ within the beauty industry currently, especially in relation to Tarte cosmetics for example (see previous posts). The same taboo topic is also noted in the article, “fans have blasted her a hypocrite for altering her snaps, after she recently promoted natural beauty with an anti-survey campaign” after having a range of procedures done such as, breast augmentations, lip fillers and botox, and previously admitting she had gone overboard.

Above:

• I found this page in particular interesting showcasing celebrities in their ‘natural’ state which I found quite compelling in a positive way. I feel even though these types of magazines are usually know for their celebrity filled covers and brash headlines, however feel very surprised by how none of these articles really in a direct way encourage lip fillers for example. Above shows another example, relaying to the viewer that celebrities are real people, and do not look flawless all the time. However, as shown below, ways to then change ourselves are advertised on a following page showcasing new and on-trend beauty products.
• Some of the quotes used and comments made resonate with the idea of self-perception, identity and belonging as under ‘Ashley Greene’, it is noted “it’s nice to know [she] looks just like us”, almost seeking acceptance and validity for how we look without makeup. Furthermore, celebrities such as Charlotte Crosby have been recorded stating “EmbraceTheForeHead tag a friend who has a MASSIVE forehead” allowing her social media following to know that she is okay with her insecurities and wants you to be okay with yours, and your friends, and hers also. I feel that this is something which could be done by ‘icons’ perhaps in ‘even higher places’ with much much influence, however this would then damage their reputation and the identity they have built through shaping perceptions.

Above:

• As previously noted above, even though the articles analysed do not directly encourage one to go and get plastic surgery for example, and in fact does shed a more negative light on it than a positive change, a few pages later, a beauty page appears with ways in which are encouraged in order to change your appearance to reach an ‘ideal’ or a certain look, as shown by featuring Cheryl Cole as a visual reference.
• I also found it interesting that sponsored products (L’Oreal) are noted in regards to Cole, and therefore maintains her reputation and identity built with the brand, whilst also her image, and power to sell products in order to get the exact look she has been photographed wearing, is only in the best interest of the brand. Therefore, often our perceptions and self-perceptions are designed and curated by the brand and icon powers at large at a particular moment in time.

Source:
STAR Magazine, Issue 659, 24th October 2016

This is working towards objective 1.

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Programme Description:

First shown, 8pm, Thurs 20th October 2016.

“Anne Robinson looks good for a woman of 72, but she works hard at it. She’s been on a diet for most of her life, has had a facelift, goes on an expensive biannual detox, exercises nearly every day, has her hair done once a week and spends lots of money on her clothes.

But aren’t younger generations under even more pressure to look good than ever before? She meets the make-up addicts who spend more time getting ready for a night out than on the night itself, a couple of gym obsessives in pursuit of Instagram followers and a young man going under the knife in the hope that he will be ‘perfect’ one day.

Anne wants to know why we’re all so obsessed with our appearance and what’s wrong with being ugly anyway? As a counterpoint to those who are obsessed with their looks she meets some people who very definitely aren’t – from the naturists who let it all hang out, to the young comedian speaking out against body shaming, to outspoken actress Miriam Margolyes who tries to coax Anne to eat more than a lettuce leaf over lunch. Anne also dons a niquab for a day to experience the rare feeling of what it’s like to not be judged on her looks at all.

She also gives two men the chance to delve into each other’s grooming routines. Alex hides his insecurities by wearing up to ten beauty products at a time, while Danny’s idea of grooming is washing his face with water and brushing his teeth. What can they learn from their very different approaches to maintaining their appearance?”

My Notes:
Couple 1 (Lanon and Millie)

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• Lanon, 22, Personal Trainer
• Millie, 20, Aspiring Fitness Model
• Below shows several short transcriptions which I found particularly interesting and resonated with in regards to the influence which social media has upon this particular couple. I found it very interesting also that it was more so the male, Lanon, whom seemed to care more about his image, highlighting a rise in male interests in their looks and self awareness. The amount of control involved in their diets, exercise routines and lifestyles is evidenced heavily the in the documentary, and shows the input required to gain ‘likes’ on Instagram.
• Another point I took away from this was the denial in that what they are doing, particularly Lanon is ‘natural’. A topic which has raised several times throughout the documentary, and has also arisen both in my research and readings of ‘Barbie Culture’, by Mary F. Rogers, and conversations around the idea of a ‘controlled natural look’ whereby one uses makeup in a minimal manner and still denotes this as ‘natural’; whereby actually, natural would be wearing no makeup at all.
• The desire and need to be deemed as attractive and ‘accepted’ also came into context during the dialogue below, whereby 10k followers allows you to be ‘rated’ better as a model, or whereby you have to gain your boyfriends approval of your in order to be happy with your body yourself.
• I also found it interesting that Millie noted that since she has focused more on her body, she has become more critical, self-aware and conscious, stating she would ‘do anything to cover up’ parts of her body she didn’t like.
• Social media has become a daily part of their life – using the Boomerang app to create loop videos for Instagram, and taking “hundreds” of selfies everyday.
• Overall, the main key point I took from the conversation Anne had with this couple is that, social media has had a profound affect on what they think they need to achieve physically in order to achieve their career goals, be happy with their bodies and get noticed for magazine articles. Ultimately, both were aiming for fame, and quite clearly playing the game, manipulating their bodies and endorsing social media to their advantage.

I decided not to carry on transcribing from the documentary as it was taking too long to content I would want to talk about, so from here on have paraphrased and included short quotes if needed.

Miriam Margolyes:

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• 75, English Character Actress and Voice Artist.
• The main point taken away from this conversation between Anne and Miriam was that, Anne said she is “always on a diet”, whilst Miriam notes that she isn’t, and enjoys food, however watches certain types of foods due to health concerns, but is not actually concerned with what she looks like in comparison to Anne, whom chooses to control this aspect by her food choices. This made me think about the prolonged effects of the media and influence, causing eating problems and therefore in some cases eating disorders – “The Costs of Eating Disorders – Social, Health and Economic Impacts report, commissioned by Beat and produced by PwC in February 2015, estimates that more than 725,000 people in the UK are affected by an eating disorder “
• Miriam notes that she feels she enjoys life more because she doesn’t have the constant worry about her body image. This I can relate to being a recovered Anorexic patient for 4 years, and know that now I feel freer without the constant pressure to conform to societies standards and ideals.
• Anne notes that “we all have some sort of Barbie doll wish, somewhere, even the most intelligent of us have some sort of strange dream about looking differently”, again going back to the idea of ideals, standardisation, confirmation, perfection and the idea of success which Mary F. Rogers notes in ‘Barbie Culture’ and Naomi Wolf’s ideas of the ‘Beauty Myth’ and the undefying male gaze which perhaps subconsciously or consciously affects us as noted above in the conversation with Millie and Anne (Couple 1) about how she reaps acceptance.
• I found Miriam’s approach to body image and self-perception interesting and refreshing, not wanting to conform with societies ideals and instead lives her life for herself, not for a curated Instagram stream or a ‘Barbie Doll figure’.

Three Ladies Getting Ready to Go Out in Liverpool:

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• Anne introduces the new scene discussing how the content and covers of magazines filled with celebrities, footballers wives, etc, has had an effect on how we see ourselves and what we do to change how we look to feel good and to ‘fit in’.
• “Liverpool is the Glam Capital of the UK … people in Liverpool will spend 3 times more on average, on looking ‘good’ than anywhere else in the country” – Anne
• Three ladies are out shopping prior to getting ready, with rollers in their hair and state that before they even go out will spend around £100 each on makeup and clothes before they go out – getting their makeup done at a professional salon – showcasing alone how consumerism is feeding the beauty and fashion industries more and more due to social media and celebrity influences.
• Ladies discuss their surgery endeavours – botox, lip liner tattoo, eyebrow tattoo, lip filler. The makeup artist, Eve, states that at one point of her life she was so self-conscious of her lips that she would cover them up when out on dates due to lack of confidence and not liking her appearance. This led on to Anne asking her about whom her influences are in regards to her lip shape, and eyebrow shape, this was her response which resonated with all of my research I have done so far in regards to influence from celebrities, in particular ambassadors of trends such as Kim Kardashian; “I think Kim Kardashian has definitely been a big influence in my life … I’d love to look like her” showcasing again how cultural icons and celebrity can have such influence on everyday peoples perceptions, lives, thoughts and actions.
• In addition, when asked if any of the girls have had breast augmentations, one said she had, and the other said she hasn’t but, “would love too” and Eve expressed that living in a city with so many models, WAGS and celebrities, and where “fashion is such a big thing, it is all you are looking at. Image, and body image and you should look like this and that, it all gets on top of you, subconsciously I think more than anything else as well like, you’re just looking at it thinking my lips need to be bigger, and don’t think why they need to be bigger” evidencing the points made previously in my research regarding the influences of social media and the likes of cultural icons such as Kylie Jenner, almost enforcing rules and standardising women (and men to some extent) to become a representation of them and what they have become, in turn showcasing their power, status and iconography as a celebrity, or influencer. I found this response from Eve very honest, and found that it is the truth behind the research question I am currently undertaking – admitting the issues, undergoing, or undergone the changes needed to standardise oneself and idolising women such as Kim Kardashian as the modern day ‘ideal’.

Morta Helhah:

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• 27, Luton, Dresses in Traditional Islamic Clothing
• States that the garments are loose to cover the sacred parts of ones body which are for oneself and to be shared with family. States she thinks people who don’t cover their bodies are more likely to be more conscious, than those who do as allows for less judgements and allows for one to be judged on personality and intellect. This is an idea which I hadn’t thought about too much previously, however on a cross-cultural level it is interesting to see on the documentary how badly received this traditional, religious dress is in the UK even though by those whom wear it see it as a positive, empowering and ‘right’ by their cultural standards and ideals. I feel this highlights the ignorance of some in the UK, but perhaps this is due to lack of understanding, education and exposure in the media in a world and country specifically whereby we are now so multi-cultural. Perhaps if this changed, in the same was as a more diverse range of models were used in fashion campaigns, there would be less issues, mental health troubles, perceptions, negative connotations and ignorance.
• It also stands out relative to Identity theories such as Social Identity noted by John Turner (1986), whereby, “a person’s sense of who they are depends on the groups to which they belong”. This also however, stands true to all of the above analysis and conversations noted from the documentary. Each person interviewed strived to change their looks and therefore their ‘identity’ to conform with a certain lifestyle.
• Many argue the use of this conservative dress in debates surrounding feminism and female oppression, however this is down to personal interpretation and opinion, but to many is a positive in a highly demanding world.

Luisa Omielan:

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• 34, Stand-up Comedienne
• Discusses how her work allows her to be brave, bold and daring using humour as a way of sharing her ideas on how society has shaped itself – trends regarding ‘thigh gap’ fad, and how this is the ‘ideal’ look went viral online with 40m views. Luisa states you have to be brave enough to say, this is what my body is like, I am happy with it and so should you. Doing so through comedy allows this to be tackled in a light-hearted, yet honest way.
• I found her approach refreshing and humorous and resonated with the satirical approach I have been using with my practical experiments, posters and Instagram posts to date.

Source:
BBC One and Anne Robinson. (2016). Britain’s Secrets with Anne Robinson: Body Image. Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b080byvs/britains-secrets-with-anne-robinson-3-body-image-secrets. Last Accessed: 20th October 2016.
B-EAT. (2016). Statistics. Available: https://www.b-eat.co.uk/about-beat/media-centre/information-and-statistics-about-eating-disorders. Last Accessed: 21st October 2016.
Turner, J. C., & Tajfel, H. (1986). The social identity theory of intergroup behavior. Psychology of intergroup relations, 7-24.

This is working towards objective 1, 4.C.

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I came across this article whilst reading about Kylie Jenner and her issues with low self-esteem online. I found this article interesting in a sense that it continues on almost from the ideas of self-perception and technologies as discussed in previous posts in detail.

Media or various forms, has projected the Jenner sisters into stardom, without having much of a choice. Below are quotes taken from the article along with questions written by the interviewer.

I found it interesting in particular, and extremely relevant that Kendall, now a Fashion model, notes that there isn’t an ideal, however through her career choices she becomes an ideal and becomes a ‘cultural icon’ as discussed previously by Mary F. Rogers. I also found her choice of wording in that “it’s not a genuine living” intriguing as this almost depicts the sense that she is aware she doesn’t live necessarily, ‘in the real world’ and therefore even if she didn’t intend to create a well-wanted image, it would of happened naturally anyway due to the media.

In relation to Kylie’s comments about being ‘natural’ I found this perplexing as even disregarding her ‘non permanent lip fillers’, she is know to wear makeup, have her own cosmetics brand and go to the gym/work out to achieve and maintain the body she wants, therefore making her quite the obvious. But in relation to the company she most likely surrounds herself with, being all she knows in the ‘real world’, she probably is actually quite ‘natural’.

–

For all their popularity and consideration on their looks, how do the Keeping Up With the Kardashians stars manage the steady investigation?

“It’s so weak,” Kendall said. “Particularly in this world, everybody takes a gander at you with an amplifying glass.”

“I imagine that that is simply idiotic in light of the fact that nobody is flawless,” Kendall told News Corp Australia.

“I know probably the most wonderful individuals out there and … I know they’re not immaculate, whether that is on the outside or within. Nobody will ever be flawless, so it’s only moronic to put somebody’s face on a magazine spread saying, ‘this is the thing that you ought to resemble.’ It’s sort of my occupation yet it’s not genuine living.”

Good examples

She has OTT lips, continually evolving hair (she’s been a blonde, brunette and had blue and green bolts) and general ‘I couldn’t care less what anybody supposes’ state of mind.

Kylie Jenner doesn’t bow to desires despite the fact that she’s a good example to young ladies.

“I don’t feel like insane weight in light of the fact that I generally stay consistent with myself,” Kylie said.

“I generally attempt to empower young ladies that admire me … to, as, not have any desire to be precisely like me. I would prefer not to urge young ladies to have blue hair and do whatever I do. I need to urge them to simply thoroughly act naturally on the grounds that that is the thing that I’ve generally done.”

Source:
Unknown. (2016). Kendall and Kylie Jenner Talk Self-Perception, Young Men and Forever New Line. Available: http://www.fashiontob.com/relationships/kendall-and-kylie-jenner-talk-self-perception-young-men-and-forever-new-line/. Last Accessed: 20th October 2016.

“The social comparison theory was first discussed by Leon Festinger (1954), he described it s the instinct that humans have to assess their abilities and opinions. When we are unsure about our abilities and opinions, this theory states that we establish our own personal and social worth based on how we compare to others (Psychology Today, 2015).”

“Information and Communication Technology is rapidly becoming an accelerator of political, economic, social and educational globalization” (Agbatogun, 2012).”

“Self-presentation among people tended to lean towards their desired selves and away from their undesired selves” (Wong, 2012).”

“Primary motive for presenting oneself on the internet sites was aimed to convey desired images to the others” (Wong, 2012).”

Source:
Bronte Mcmillan. (2015). Social Network and Self-Perception. Available: https://prezi.com/ve5wnunhbqof/social-network-and-self-perception/#. Last Accessed: 20th October 2016.

This is working towards objective 1 and 3.

I have confirmed an interview with an International Supermodel regarding how the Fashion and beauty industries may affect her own perception.

At present I cannot name her due to confidentiality agreements that her name would not be disclosed online, only on physical paper submitted for marking. This complying also with the Ethics Policy underpinned by the college ensuring fair practice and ethical research is taking place, not damaging or harming myself or the participant.

I am currently trying to collate my research into to put together relevant, concise and accurate questions in order to gather the required information to assist with the unpicking of my reseach question.  I have the option to either visit her in person in January or I can Skype her between now and January if said interview is ready and confirmed.  I simply want to make sure I utilise the opportunity to gain the best information as this will be my only chance to speak to such a person with an incredibly high status within the Fashion industry. After interviewing Samantha Ravndhal via Periscope quite suddenly and unexpectedly I didn’t feel I got the most out of it. I did get very good information and first hand research which has proved to help my practical projects and research, so want to ensure that this opportunity is not lost.

I feel after talking to Samantha and gaining honest insight in how a career within the Beauty Industry affects her, it will be really interesting to speak with someone from the Fashion Industry also for comparison and analysis.

This is working towards objective 1.

Source:
Rogers, M. (1999). Barbie Culture: Sage Publications. p.various (noted above).