The Fashion Conference Symposium at Manchester Art Gallery

After receiving the itinerary for the Fashion Conference Symposium at Manchester Art Gallery on Working in Industry (Friday 14th Oct) I came to realise that the event was aimed more at Fashion Design Graduates and how to start their own businesses post HE opposed to discussing the working Fashion Industry as whole, I decided to not attend as I did not feel I would gain enough out of it to miss a day of lectures. I also feel that now knowing the full itinerary I wouldn’t of been able to aquire all of the information I originally had noted or expected.

I felt that Annabeth’s lecture on Technologies, Video and Animation along with her practice would be of more benefit in advance to the Professional Context presentations. In addition, this would allow me to understand different technologies more which has since helped with further analysis and critique of new technologies in the fashion and beauty industries in relation to my practice. I wouldnt of been able to obtain such relevant and important knowledge had I of missed this lecture in return for the Working in Industry symposium.

Artist Research: Barbara Kruger

During conversation with Bobbi, a fellow MA student regarding our current projects, Barbara Kruger’s work was discussed regarding its relevance to my practice. I had seen Barbara Kruger’s work before in galleries, and furthermore had taken influence from her practice, ethos and methods during my A Level’s studying Fine Arts.

However, in regards to my current practice and experimental projects I am undertaken, Kruger’s work resonates with mine on both a theoretical and visual manner in many respects, using copy to stimulate thought, and visuals to contextualise commercial, media and socio-cultural related issues.

I found the Kim Kardashian W cover to be particularly interesting, especially in regards to its execution. Appearing naked as in many of Kim Kardashian’s most famous Instagram shots and magazine covers, her body is covered by Kruger’s red and white slogans hinting at narcissism and self-obsession, which I found interesting as I have referenced and researched both Kim Kardashian and her sibling, Kylie Jenner in regards to my research question, whilst currently producing experimental posters and prints, for example, aimed at a range of the issues noted in Kruger’s works.

  • Power
  • ‘Social life’
  • Virtual worlds (digital age)
  • Media
  • Politics
  • Cultural hierarchies
  • Protest
  • Feminism
  • Critical Theory

I have also bolded any key points below across several quotes, which I feel really contextualise the relationship between Kruger’s works and my current practice/research. In addition, it is noted below that Kruger often used screen printing and photolithography to produce final resolutions of her works. I have already experimented with screen printing, and have evaluated my techniques and processes in a previous post, however feel that photolithography works much better for monochrome photos, and feel both in terms of cost and time digitally printing, or digitally curating my final resolutions may be the best outcome in regards to gaining best visual impact and detail from my works, whilst appealing to the target audiences of my works more appropriately.

I would be interested in recreating some digital pieces of work influenced directly by Kruger, however keeping true to the tone of voice and aesthetic which has already been established whilst experimenting so far, to see how the target audience engage with photographs rather than graphics, for example.

In a virtual world, virtual words are becoming virtually weightless, dematerialized. The more words wash over us, the less we understand them. And the less we are able to recognize which ones are influencing us—manipulating us subtly, invisibly, insidiously. Barbara Kruger rematerializes words, so that we can read them closely, deeply.” (3)

Barbara Kruger addresses media and politics in their native tongue: tabloid, sensational, authoritative, and direct. Kruger’s words and images merge the commercial and art worlds; their critical resonance eviscerates cultural hierarchies — everyone and everything is for sale.”(1)

“I try to deal with the complexities of power and social life, but as far as the visual presentation goes I purposely avoid a high degree of difficulty.” (4)
“Although my art work was heavily informed by my design work on a formal and visual level, as regards meaning and content the two practices parted ways.” (4)

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“The year 1989 was marked by numerous demonstrations protesting a new wave of antiabortion laws chipping away at the 1973 Roe v. Wade Supreme Court decision. Untitled (Your body is a battleground) was produced by Kruger for the Women’s March on Washington in support of reproductive freedom. The woman’s face, disembodied, split in positive and negative exposures, and obscured by text, marks a stark divide. This image is simultaneously art and protest. Though its origin is tied to a specific moment, the power of the work lies in the timelessness of its declaration.”(1)

“The work is about…audience and the scrutiny of judgment…fashion and the imperialism of garments, community and the discourse of self-esteem, witnessing and the anointed moment, spectacle and the enveloped viewer, narrative and the gathering of incidents, simultaneity and the elusive now, digitals and the rush of the capture.” There’s much, much more just in case we miss any aspect of what “the work is about.” (3)

Sources:
(1) http://www.thebroad.org/art/barbara-kruger/untitled-your-body-battleground, Last Accessed: 17th October 2016
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cvbBJhTPsLY/TiKhoH1-mdI/AAAAAAAABTw/li4M_OKgwgw/s1600/2010-by-barbara-kruger-for-w-magazine-feat-kim-kardashian-0.jpg, Last Accessed: 17th October 2016
(2) http://www.moma.org/collection/works/64897, Last Accessed: 17th October 2016
(3) http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/barbara-krugers-artwork-speaks-truth-to-power-137717540/#XFFbuSxTRH8Rzi4i.99, Last Accessed: 17th October 2016
(4) https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=barbara+kruger&biw=1179&bih=1276&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiS8c7f6OLPAhVMKcAKHXXxAikQ_AUIBygA&dpr=1#q=Barbara+Kruger+Quotes, Last Accessed: 17th October 2017

Questionnaire and Survey Planning: Beauty Apps & Photo-editing

This is working towards objective 3 and 1.

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Upon further discussion of these questionnaire’s with fellow MA student Bobbi, it arised that some women for example, may take offence to the second form of questionnaire, particularly feminists, whom may think ethically this is wrong. I found this point really interesting as this had not crossed my mind. This form of this particular visual research was to find out what people currently find attractive in a booming digital age whereby many are falling for the trend traps set out by bloggers, brands and celebrities for example over-editing selfies and engaging with makeup trends due to societies ever changing norms and ideals. I want to find out whether this in turn, effects how we see other people as well as ourselves. Does how we perceive other people affect how we end up seeing ourselves or our partners for example?

I take into consideration any ethical issues which may arise, however wish to see if this form of research is beneficiary in regards to unpicking my research question.

 

Kylie Cosmetics: In Context on Instagram

This is working towards objective 1, 4.C, 4.D.

I have posted several screenshots below whilst looking through Kylie Jenners, ‘Kylie Cosmetics’ Instagram account, in order to gain information on new colours which could be used on the posters and blogging posts I am current experimenting with. I wanted to ensure that I am currently upto date with the 8.6m followers which the account has in order to engage with and appeal to the right audience through my critical-design led approach to blogging posts.

I also found the posts below interesting to show and reflect on in regards to the amount of interaction from followers, whilst noting how new shades, are released with perfect timing for seasonal events keeping up with relevant marketing and promotion, whilst also showing ‘followers’ selfies intermingled with Kylie Jenners – allowing for users to think if they can look ‘to the same standard’ using her products, maybe they will be noticed and featured too. In turn this does affect our self-perception, through changing our attitude and appearance to follow a trend and fit in with a certain community.

In addition it is important for me to see what is happening in this community whilst working on such related design work, and especially whilst starting to plan my initial zine, based on Kylie Jenner and her cosmetics brand. A rationale for this decision can be seen in my previous post regarding planning and prototyping.

Furthermore, it is interesting to see how relatively new technologies such as the KYLIE app for example is intermingled through posts, again advertising another of her products, and leading those to download the app showcasing such a consumer and brand led culture of the digital age. Furthermore videos can also be seen on the Instagram page itself, showing short snippets of advertisements, swatches or tutorials from Kylie. This level of engagement and user-interaction, with links to her website to buy products, and links to other tagged members allows for users to feel apart of the community as noted above.

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Poster Idea Development

This is working towards objective 4.C.

IDEA: A3 Posters, targeting and addressing how social media, brand culture and celebrity status within the Beauty Industry, affect our self-perception.

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A3 Posters, showcasing in a commercial and satirical visual manner how social media, brand culture and celebrity status within the Beauty Industry, affect our self-perception.

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Zine Prototyping: Kylie Jenner – Content Plan

This is working towards objective 4.D.

Below shows my initial thoughts and initial content plan for my first prototyped zine, leading on from some of the Instagram Blogging Posts/Poster Prints I have been developing.

These Posts/Prints have been covering a range of topics in a satirical, lounge-in-chic and bold banner, hoping to engage with the audience and provoke thought. Themes covered include:

  • Consumerism
  • Trends
  • Celebrity Culture
  • Sociology and Psychology
  • Self-Perception
  • Brand Culture
  • Narcissism
  • The Self

I have decided to focus this initial zine prototype on Kylie Jenner for several reasons. My reasons for this decision are noted below:

  • Current influencer status
  • Personal issues with body image and self-perception, spurring her on to change her looks and then create a brand out of it, allowing for a trend to be found
  • Brand power due to celebrity status
  • Engagement and insights from my Instagram Posts show that the posts relative to Kylie Jenner’s, ‘Kylie Cosmetics’ were most seen, ‘liked’ and commented on, showcasing her current popularity within the social media communities
  • Kylie Jenner also has her own App and YouTube channel, allowing followers to watch her day-to-day life, ‘getting ready routines’, makeup secrets and live-stream videos for example, allowing a multitude of platforms for KJ to engage with and influence her following, whether in regards to looks or product-led consumer choices

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Further Instagram Blogging Posts

This is working towards objective 4.A and 1.

View the posts on Instagram, here!

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Caption: “Consumer culture strikes again! Who caved into the ‘Birthday Editions’? Was gold lips even a thing before Kylie Jenner?”

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Caption: Drippy Lips

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Caption: Apparently these are the top beauty hashtags on Instagram. Who wants to be apart of the fame game?

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Caption: Close Ups – Posters, Postcards and Zines coming soon

Lecture Notes: Technologies with Annabeth Robinson/Recent Technologies in the Fashion & Beauty Industries

This is working towards objective 1.

Below shows notes taken from todays lecture with Annabeth regarding new technologies and how she uses them within her practice to produce, exhibit and curate pieces of Animation, Film and Video.

This lecture made me realise that even though recently I have been researching different technologies within the Beauty and Fashion Industries, that many of the topics discussed could be relayed back to my research question, allowing me to think further about how technology can help with research, whilst also allowing for platforms to experiment with ideas, processes and techniques. It also made me think about how through my current projects I am engaging with social media to showcase my work, reaching a specifically targeted and tailored global audience, and how this instant access to other cultures for example, is quite a recent development.

I also realised that many of the technologies Annabeth discussed have already been used in someway in both the Fashion and Beauty Industries, therefore allowing me to create a more developed mind-map for this specific topic. I have also shown examples in context below. The main technologies which came to mind were the rise of apps, and social media use allowing for a constant stream of ‘virtual gallery experiences’ as Annabeth also noted today, combined with the idea of Live-Stream Video, Integrated Video (within apps and websites for example), UI and UX design, Augmented Reality, VR, Film and Video, CGI and Face Recognition. In regards to my practice and research question, it is important for me to understand the uses and benefits of these technologies as well as the negative impacts they may have over time. Each of these noted technologies may have benefits to the brand using them and may encourage todays current climate of consumer culture, however, in which ways do these effect the self-perception of the audience? For example, the use of CGI to create Avatars, or Apps to digitally edit our photos. Overtime as technologies become even more embedded in our lives how will this affect us? How will this contribute to societal changes? I also noted from discussions from the class today, that some people still do not part take in new technologies, and don’t have mobile phones, therefore how do these technologies exclude some members of society through presuming that everyone is up to speed and aware of such advances?

Thinking about technologies also allow me to understand how important it is to access the right platforms to reach a cross-cultural audience.

Furthermore, this lecture opened my eyes to the amount of events and lectures which take place regarding technologies in the digital age, which may be of benefit to me to really understand the current societal needs to be so dependant upon technology, which in turn may help with my research and understanding of my research question. This have been noted on the second page of my scanned in notes that are shown below.

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Industry Examples

  • Misha Nonoo premiered her Spring collection on Instagram, told Vogue Runway Director Nicole Phelps earlier this week: “That’s the beauty of digital; somebody has a front row seat while sitting in their armchair.”
  • YouVisit is a platform that creates interactive virtual tours of occasionally hard to access places (namely of restaurants and universities, though it has also showcased festivals and sporting events). YouVisit aligned with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia with this mission in mind: The result, Mirror to the Soul, is a five-minute whirlwind that gives the viewer a full picture of the event, from backstage to the front row to the street style scrum and an Uber in between. “Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia has always been tech-savvy,” said its founder and president.”
  • “YouVisit worked on a VR “lookbook” for some Moscow-based designers to allow a viewer to survey runway looks from all angles, immediately access more information, and, ideally, eventually have the possibility to place an order. “It could be much more fun than browsing websites, and more useful for marketing,” he added.”
  • “Topshop held a three-day flagship VR experience back in February 2014” – different interpretation of LFW at the same time as the show happening live – allowing for the general public to access an exclusive event in a unique, engaging and interactive way.

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  • Dior presented a headset backstage at its February 2015 show; this past August, Rebecca Minkoff sent out a VR mailer to watch the label’s Fall 2015 runway; and the VR production company Jaunt distributed a cliff-jumping video it made for outerwear-minded retailer The North Face in April.”
  • “The retail climate is increasingly dire, and customer engagement is at an all-time low. The trade papers are full of the news of one of fashion’s premier PR firms picking up a geo-social app primarily used for “cruising,” with the hopes of marketing fashion and beauty brands to its audience. The concept of submerging your desired demographic into your branding does have a certain ring to it. “We can offer that kind of immersion and intimate access that’s delivering that next-level potential to the industry,” said YouVisit CEO Abi Mandelbaum. “We’re excited to bring that to life.” Whether runway shows cease to be relevant—or which brand will be the first to jump—remains to be seen, but there’s one thing for certain: The arms race is on.”
  • “In the me-me-me millennial world, virtual reality has the possibility to be all about you.”
  • Jae Suk Kim, an illustrator who has worked with Bulgari, Cartier, and Louis Vuitton, who you watch snap runway looks on his iPhone until his illustrations come alive as animated GIFs on the runway.”
  • VR — an experience beyond that which you might have gotten in person … One thing that I’ve noticed is that fashion is about a lot more than just the designs,” said Mandelbaum, “it’s about what’s happening in the world, and it’s about the models, the designers, their inspirations, the stories behind them, and that’s what VR allows them to do, to tell all of that in an interesting way. That’s the power of VR; it goes way beyond just what’s happening in the room.
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I found the Shisido mirror interesting due to being the first of it’s kind, whilst being Japanese highlighting the international and cross-cultural context of my research question.
Sources:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2055719/Virtual-changing-rooms-hit-high-street-Debenhams-trial-new-technology.html, Last Accessed: 14th October 2016
http://thebwd.com/topshop-virtual-reality-london-fashion-week-window-display/, Last Accessed: 14th October 2016

Instagram Posts to date: Insights 

Below shows screenshots of the insights of my Instagram Posts to date.  The first set of posts shown in my ‘Initial Posts’ blog post are not included in the insights below as Instagram only keeps track of engagement of your most recent 12 posts. Therefore going forward I know to note these sooner and more often in order to analyse the engagement of what the audience likes to see more of, therefore in turn hoping to help shape a final range of posts.

Engagement and insights from this set of Instagram Posts show, that the posts relative to Kylie Jenner’s ‘Kylie Cosmetics’ makeup range were most seen, ‘liked’ and commented on, showcasing her current popularity within the social media communities.

I also found that digitally created artwork was much better received also, reinforcing my thoughts on this highlighted in a previous post.

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