Japan Research Trip – Collated Research: International Magazines

Whilst in Tokyo, I picked up the latest Japanese editions of both Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, which in relation to National Japanese magazines is a huge contrast in regard to content, design, models and editorial decisions. Unlike the National magazines which feature around 90% Japanese models, these magazines noted below, feature around 90% Western models. From my research to date, and from speaking with Vogue in Japan, this is due to the nature of the publications being of an International nature, and thereby need to maintain this in order to keep in line with, and maintain the ‘Vogue’ or ‘Harpers’ Bazaar’ title and standard. This is also why headlines are noted in English writing, allowing for International readers, such as myself, being able to understand what each article/spread is about, even if one can not read the full body of text. Product/brand names are also noted in English AND Japanese throughout, again in order to relate to a mass, international audience, allowing for consumers to purchase, or look up products/garments of interest for example.

Both of these magazines, also now have digital editions which can be downloaded via the Apple Store, or their relevant websites. This is advertised and noted on the cover of each magazine, as shown below.

In comparison to the Local and National Japanese Fashion and Beauty magazines, the aesthetic design decisions are stripped back in comparison, whilst still being much more daring, and playful in design than the UK editions. Whilst talking with Vogue, this was raised and questioned, and is due to Japanese women wanting to be youthful and playful, whilst falling in line with the ‘cute’ or ‘Kawaii’ themes which are popular in Japan across editorial design, beauty products and garments, allowing for a visual relationship to be built with the reader. It was important to understand this in relation to self-perception issues in order to understand how magazines can affect perceptions within Japanese women, and likewise the perceptions of others in regard to external and visual influences.

A range of Western models, all of which have fairly light skin, have been used throughout the magazine alongside Japanese models whom look fairly Western also in regards to skin-tone and eye shape, portraying the known ‘ideal’ in Japan, whilst enforcing a major Western influence.

It can also be seen that celebrities and icons featured are Western, opposed to being National Japanese icons, and again this falls in line with the idea of maintaining the ‘International’ title of both magazines and what they stand for – affluent, inspirational, well-know and established high-end Fashion/Beauty trends. When I asked Vogue about this, and its reasoning, it was established that Japanese icons wouldn’t be as well received or recognised by an International audience, and by using Western icons and models, differentiates them from the National and International magazines which are seen across many magazines on the shelves in Japan.

This is also working toward the following objective:

1. To understand the ways in which Social Media and Magazines can affect self-perceptions and issues:

A) With body image (Females, 18-24)

B) With body image on a cross-cultural scale (Females, 18-24; Tokyo, Japan).

2. To understand policies and guidelines within the Fashion and Beauty Industries currently encouraging positive body image.

4. To prototype a range of design work targeted at 18-24 year old women, highlighting impacts of cross-cultural beauty/fashion trends on self-perceptions and body image.

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Japan Research Trip – Collated Research: ADMT (Advertising Design Museum Tokyo)

Whilst in Tokyo, I visited the ADMT, in order to gain information and visual inspiration in regards to how the use of women within advertising has changed overtime, as women in Japan are only seen more recently as ‘equal’ to men in regard to their social and work status.

I found this a really beneficial trip due to featuring a show reel of Shiseido TV advertisements over the years, which unfortunately, I was unable to record. The advertisements spanned from the 1950s to present day, and featured a mix of both Western and Japanese models/stars.

I was however able to collate some printed materials and photographs, which I have documented below.

This is also working toward the following objectives:

1. To understand the ways in which Social Media and Magazines can affect self-perceptions and issues:

A) With body image (Females, 18-24)

B) With body image on a cross-cultural scale (Females, 18-24; Tokyo, Japan).

4. To prototype a range of design work targeted at 18-24 year old women, highlighting impacts of cross-cultural beauty/fashion trends on self-perceptions and body image.

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Above shows an advertisement for a Japanese face cream – what I found interesting is that even though this is not a Shiseido campaign, the same marketing strategy of using a mirror within the artwork – the self-surveying gaze – whilst also having a pleasing smile on her face looking at her reflection. This has been discussed in more depth below, in relation to another Shiseido advertisement.

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admt-6I have included the exhibition guide above from ‘The One Show’, which notes a feature on the L’Oréal Make Up Genuis app. Again, each of the above had a relevant film to watch, along with an iPad allowing for a user to experiment with the app in the gallery. I was however unable to record this video. The main purpose of the app is to take away the stigmas and embarrassment of trying on products in store, whilst also being one of the first mobile apps where you can try on products via augmented reality, and then purchase them also through the app. This is similar to the Shiseido Mirror, however this is only available to use at the Ginza store. The L’Oréal app also allows for reduced foot flow in stores, easing the pressure of staff in a manic environment, whereby in Japan, L’Oréal is seen as quite a luxurious brand and is sold in the equivalent of Harvey Nichols example, opposed to here in England where it is predominantly featured in ‘drugstores’ on the highstreet.

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These particular scans have been taken from a book produced and written by POLA, the Japanese Research Institute of Beauty and Culture. I felt very lucky to of come across this at the ADMT, as it shows the progression of the beauty industry, products and advertising over the past decade. I found from analysing this that there has always been a culture of ‘skin-lightening’ and youthfulness amongst women, due to as previously noted, socio-cultural and historical backgrounds, however also noted that I was Shiseido in the 1940s whom brought in and introduced Western models to work with throughout their campaigns for Beauty Cake – a very pale foundation with a very high SPF. I found remarkable however, that the advertisement is shot on a beach, proving the point that with this foundation you can enjoy the sun and the weather, but you WILL NOT TAN. Furthermore, the hat and costume worn are white – adding to the notion that ‘white is beautiful’. I was very happy to of come across this booklet and campaign, as this has reaffirmed previous research into Japanese culture and the obsession with ‘white skin’, as also in the journal, ‘Cultivating Japanese Whiteness’ by Ashikari, M (2005). This has been analysed and discussed in depth on a previous blog post.

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The book shown above was purchased at the ADMT store, and features a range of advertisements over the years, showing the progression of design whilst also showing how women have been used over the years in ad campaigns for both shopping centres and the Shiseido brand – as seen above. This I found complemented the various postcards and imagery taken from the Shiseido Ginza store, whilst also reaffirming research from a Shiseido journal (previous blog post), whereby mirrors or reflective surfaces were often use in campaigns, hinting at the self-surveying gaze theory as heavily discussed previous on various blog posts, and in my Professional Context presentations from Semester 1. This theory was derived by Shields and Heinecken (2002).
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Above shows a book which I picked up in the ADMT library (which was absolutely incredible), and featured a range of Japanese Graphics, in particular Cosmetics packaging. I found this inspiring, and again, to see so much design work around the Beauty industry predominantly, allowed for an insight once again into how important and vast the industry is to the Japanese people.

Above also shows a range of ‘AD STUDIES’ magazines – each was tailored around a specific topic and stemmed back from early 2000s to present day issue. I was able to take a few away, and have included photographs above. I have found these useful in regard to design and layout inspiration whilst also having specific features and campaigns of interest within, i.e. Geisha specific artwork, whereby the current ‘ideal’ can be recognised stemming back to socio-cultural and historial routes, irregardless of a Western influence.

Japan Research Trip – Collated Research: Shiseido

Below shows a range of primary research which has been collated from my research trip to Tokyo, Japan.

The Shiseido Magazine was brought to my attention whilst talking with Toni Hollowood, and was unable to source one at Shiseido stockists in the UK. Whilst at the Shiseido Ginza store, I was able to pick one up.

I was taken back with their magazine, for a cosmetics company, the magazine is beautifully designed with great editorial content and photography. I was particularly interested in the content choices and have made several notes below.

This is also working toward the following objectives:

1. To understand the ways in which Social Media and Magazines can affect self-perceptions and issues:

A) With body image (Females, 18-24)

B) With body image on a cross-cultural scale (Females, 18-24; Tokyo, Japan).

4. To prototype a range of design work targeted at 18-24 year old women, highlighting impacts of cross-cultural beauty/fashion trends on self-perceptions and body image.

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Above: In certain articles, Japanese models are used, and I did notice that they have very light skin, representing the vast range of skin-lightening products which the brand has to offer.

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Above: I noticed on the editorial above however, that even though shot in Tokyo, and features Japanese men, the female model is Western. I found this an interesting contrast in relation to the other spreads, especially due to having a Tokyo based theme for this specific editorial. However, I find the chosen model interesting due to hair and skin colour, not being common with Japanese females.

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Above: I found the above spreads interesting in regards to design, and aesthetic choices, being typically ‘Japanese’. These are very inspiring for my practical project.

Furthermore, including a cat in the photoshoot I also found fascinating due to this often being seen promoting Japanese products such as Canmake and Paul and Joe, as seen in a following blog post. This ties in with the Kawaii, or ‘cute’ theme which is often seen in Japan adding a further youthful tone of voice and context. I found from previous research, reading academic journals and visual research, whilst being reaffirmed in interviews in Japan with Nicole (beauty blogger), and Vogue, that Japanese women’s primary focus with their beauty regimes is about looking ‘young’ with ‘baby-esk’ skin.

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Above: The left hand side page shows an exhibition advert. The exhibition was held at the Shiseido Gallery which I visited in Ginza. The concept relayed around rays of ‘light’. The right hand side page looks at various new products, comparing prices and ‘end results’, including a range of skin-lightening seems.

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Above: Above shows a double sided leaflet taken from the Shiseido store, looking at a new cushion-based foundation. I found this interesting due to using again, very young models, whilst on the reverse shows a step-by-step guide of recreating each of the models looks. From my research to date, as seen in many of the National Japanese magazines, women purchasing products want to know exactly how to apply such products and what the benefits are. This can also be seen on the right, whereby each product shows swatches of other shades available, clearly noting to the end-user what is on offer, what it does and how much this will set them back in regards to Japanese Yen.

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Above: Two postcards which I bought in the Shiseido store. I purchased these due to heavily reflecting the self-surveying gaze theory as discussed in previous posts, both in relation to theoretical perspectives, but also in regard to Shiseido advertising campaigns which in the 1950s utilised this marketing strategy. This is something which has been discussed and analysed in depth on a previous blog post, whilst also appearing in my dissertation along with the image above to add context.

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Above: Above shows a vast range of products on offer which can help lighten ones skin and prevent ageing. The amount of products on offer in comparison to the 4 products found in a stockist in the UK was overwhelming, but shows how important this ‘trend’ or ‘culture’ is to Japanese women.

In addition, the Shiseido Makeup Mirror was also found and played with, which after analysing and discussing heavily last semester in regard to new technologies within my field of practice was amazing to see and use. The mirror was also discussed in my first Professional Context presentation – this was the first augmented reality mirror to be designed and created by a cosmetics brand, and has since, similar versions have been designed and are being used by brands such as L’Oreal in both Japan and China. The mirror is an interesting idea, as it shows you how you look with different products, whilst the computer attached shares in-depth product information so the end-user is aware of what they are buying. I personally, did not see any Japanese women try any products on in store – everything was done via the Shiseido Mirror, reaffirming the stigmatism and ’embarrassment’ of trying on a range of products in store. This was also discussed last semester in relation to these new technologies.

Japan Research Trip – Mind-map of Collated Research

I have compiled a mind-map in order to collate my findings from my research trip to Tokyo, Japan. From this I plan on creating further mind maps and blog posts relating to each point noted below.

This is also working toward the following objective:

1. To understand the ways in which Social Media and Magazines can affect self-perceptions and issues:

A) With body image (Females, 18-24)

B) With body image on a cross-cultural scale (Females, 18-24; Tokyo, Japan).

2. To understand policies and guidelines within the Fashion and Beauty Industries currently encouraging positive body image.

3. To work with and interview those both actively working in the Fashion and Beauty Industries, and those on a consumer/follower/user basis, to compare behaviours and perspectives in relation to body image and self-perceptions.

4. To prototype a range of design work targeted at 18-24 year old women, highlighting impacts of cross-cultural beauty/fashion trends on self-perceptions and body image.

 

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Japanese Beauty Tutorial – National Magazines

Whilst looking online for recent Shiseido campaigns, I came across these makeup tutorials which have been taken from national magazines. I found them interesting in regards to the kitsch, cute and typically graphic aesthetic, whilst also be relative contextually to my current research, and furthermore the Lisa Eldridge tutorial discussed, whereby it was noted that many Japanese, use cosmetics to open out the eyes, make them look bigger. This is something which was also noted in Semester 1, whilst analysing YouTube mini-documentary interviews with young females in Tokyo regarding beauty standards and ideals in Japan, whilst also addressing what ‘traits’ they find attractive in foreigners (blog post can be found here for reference). In addition, both of the spreads featured have an emphasis on step-by-step guides on how to recreate a certain look which is something I want to question whilst carrying out primary research in Japan, in order to understand why this is, as this is far removed from the tutorials and beauty campaigns seen in British magazines, for example.

I will be looking out for national magazines in Japan to look for further beauty/exercise regimes which can be compared to Vogue ‘Nippon’ magazines, whilst also having the opportunity to discuss such tutorials and techniques with Nicole Takahashi, a Japanese beauty blogger.

I also hope to gain further contextual understanding, and hope to seek more visual influences and aesthetic inspirations, which I hope to feed into my practical work during this semester, allowing for research to inform my practice, as seen in semester 1.

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Shiseido, Pop-Culture and Advertising

I came across the below advertising examples from Shiseido whilst looking at their more recent campaign materials for 2017. I found it interesting that the brand have taken a step away from ‘traditional’ advertising in regards to glossy finishes and large copywriting, pulling the customer in, and have instead turned to celebrities, icons and bloggers, like many Western brands such as Maybelline (please see previous posts). As much as this reinforces how social media, celebrity culture and blogger culture are having an impact on marketing strategies, this also allows for a further, and instant connection between digital technologies, brand power and consumerist trends.

Even though these are print-led ‘advertising campaigns’ digitally led visuals and pop-culture ‘icons’ have been chosen as ambassadors, reinforcing the point of consumers generating a personal association with a brand, whilst buying into a message of that, ‘with our brand and our products, you too could be like them’. This is shown through the use of using Lady Gaga, The ‘Top’ Eastern Asian Icons and Japanese Beauty Bloggers. What I found even more interesting was that the imagery chosen of Lady Gaga, were all her own selfies that had been taken from her Instagram account, again causing a connection with the brand, and fans of Gaga alike, whilst forming a sense of inclusion. Using selfies from social media, reminded me of the ‘mirror gaze’ theory which was often featured in Shiseido’s earlier advertising, “reflecting their images to an external audience” whilst “self-inspecting” (Weisenfield, G. 2009), showing ones self-awareness. Furthermore in relation to Gaga, a Western ‘icon’ has been chosen whom has very light skin, fitting in with the stereotypical and promoted Japanese ‘ideal.

This ideology is also reflected in the further examples shown below.

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Below shows two different campaigns, one which showcases  The ‘Top’ Eastern Asian Icons and the other which showcases the lineup of Japanese Beauty Bloggers which will be used as ambassadors for the Shiseido brand. In contrast to the above, this really surprised me. Yes, the majority are portrayed to have very light skin, however all are of Asian race, opposed to Western as seen above with Lady Gaga. This makes me question the use of Lady Gaga as Japan and Eastern Asia obviously do have their own National icons, however, globalisation of Western culture, celebrity and consumerist trends I feel are still taken into account, claiming a share of an International market place.

Whilst in Japan I am keen to see what visuals and models are used in their stores, as well as featured in the National advertising campaigns.

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Sources:
Weisenfield, G (2009). Visualising Culture; Selling Shiseido. Massachusetts: Massachusetts Institute of Technology. P, 24.

A Conversation with Toni Hollowood

Below shows notes made from the audio recording of my meeting with CSM MA student Toni Hollowood, who has looked into issues surrounding DIY Beauty in relation to social media surrounding the beauty industry for her research and practical project.

A recording of this will be submitted on a USB along with all other recorded interviews, whilst being noted in my appendices of my dissertation, with print outs of the notes featured below for reference.

This is working toward the following objectives:

1. To understand the ways in which Social Media and Magazines can affect self-perceptions and issues:

A) With body image (Females, 18-24)

B) With body image on a cross-cultural scale (Females, 18-24; Tokyo, Japan).

3. To work with and interview those both actively working in the Fashion and Beauty Industries, and those on a consumer/follower/user basis, to compare behaviours and perspectives in relation to body image and self-perceptions.

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Vogue Japan Photography: East Meets West

A range of editorial photographs and advertisements which have been taken from various Japanese Vogue magazines whereby Western and Eastern beauty ideals and cultures meet. This is also known as ‘cultural confluence’.

The examples below show a range of both Japanese and Western models photographed together whilst also showing cultural appropriation, utilising Western models, with traditional Japanese makeup inspired by the Geisha. Furthermore, Catholicism is hinted at in the second example shown, which I find fascinating due to Japanese not believing in this faith. In addition, a Vogue cover is shown, whereby a range of ‘perfect icons’ are featured on a wrap cover – one of which are Japanese. Even so, each model chosen has a ‘western look’. An advertisement showing Penelope Cruz has also been noted, due to having what appears to be photoshopped skin, in order to make the Latino star’s skin lighter to tie in with Japanese ideals and trends.

I want to continue to look out for further examples if this cultural confluence and appropriation whilst on my research trip in Tokyo, in order to see how modern day beauty ideals are reflected through magazines and advertisements.

I also want to understand through my upcoming research and interviews in Tokyo, Japan why this is often done, and if/how this can affect the perceptions of Japanese women by being exposed to Western influences and standards of beauty.

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Shiseido Advertising Campaigns of Contextual Relevance and Aesthetic Interest

Below shows relevant sections of Weisenfield’s Visualising Culture; Selling Shiseido (2009), visual essay, which I felt summarises the history of brand, whilst also looking at underlying cultural and social contexts which really helped bring to light why current trends and ‘ideals’ exist, or feature in Japan so heavily.

I found this extremely interesting to read, and found overlaps from recent conversation with Vicky at Space NK and other academic research regarding the modern positioning of cosmetics and beauty in Japan. I also uncovered further context surrounding theories such as ‘The Gaze” (Mulvey, L. 1999) and “The Self-Surveying Gaze” (Shields and Heineken. 2002), for example, which were analysed heavily in Semester 1 in relation to my research topic.

Overall the below reflects a range of key-topics such as; skin-lightening products, their use of theory-led advertising campaigns and western models, whilst also accounting for social and cultural history of ‘working class women’.

 

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(Above, P.3)

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(Above, P.27)

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(Above, P.53)

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(Above, P.51)

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(Above, P.54)

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Sources:
Weisenfield, G (2009). Visualising Culture; Selling Shiseido. Massachusetts: Massachusetts Institute of Technology. P, Various.

Shiseido: Harvey Nichols & SPACE NK – Leeds

Today I visited Space NK and Harvey Nichols in Leeds, to find out prior to visiting Japan, which Shiseido products are currently on offer in the UK. No other stockists sell Shiseido in Leeds, therefore was keen to see this as a comparison to the brand in it’s native home of Japan. I also hoped to take photos/collect any marketing materials/ad campaign material which may be visible, again to compare with the Japanese collateral – i.e. model, copywriting, product name, etc.

Harvey Nichols:
In Harvey Nichols, I found a very small range of 6 skincare products, at the back of the store – I was unable to photograph the selection being surrounded by beauty consultants and felt this was inappropriate to do so. I found that Shiseido used to have a cosmetics and skincare concession in Harvey Nichols, selling a full range of products, but has since been removed and now features a small range within a wall of more ‘remote’, or ‘new’ and not as well known, products and brands such as Iconic. All of the staff members in the department were too new to Harvey Nichols to tell me why the concession was removed – my only thought was that it could not compete with the likes of MAC and Benefit which fill the first floor of the store, perhaps not being as understood by a British audience, or not being so well received due to the lack of advertising and marketing surrounding the UK demographic. I did ask for any Shiseido marketing materials or magazines, to which I was informed they do not stock, nor know of, at all in their working experience at Harvey Nichols for such brand. I was advised to visit Space NK, another stockist, across the road to enquire with them regarding this. From my research, a full range of Shiseido products in still available online, on the Harvey Nichols website. I did find interesting however, that, out of the few products in the store, 3 of which featured skin-lightening or ‘whitening’ in the product name. I was told by a member of staff that this was most likely a brand-conscious/buyer decision, in regard to still catering for the Asian market and demographic within Leeds, as these ‘types’ of products are not readily available in the Western/British market.

Space NK:
After being directed to Space NK by a beauty consultant at Harvey Nichols, I was informed that only 1 product was actually stocked in-store – beauty blotting paper. I found this surprising for a cosmetics store, however was also told that last summer they did stock the Shiseido Summer Range, consisting of SPF products, aimed at preserving ‘white skin’. Again like Harvey Nichols, found that this would of been a conscious decision, possibly catering for the Asian market in Leeds. I found it interesting that cosmetic products weren’t stocked, however Shiseido ultimately have been known for their technical innovations and formulations, making them stand-out with their skincare products primarily. There was also no marketing materials in store for Shiseido, and was directed to their website to view the advertising campaigns if desired.

Whilst in-store, I was speaking with a Korean Beauty Consultant, Vicky, whom I found extremely interesting and helpful in regards to discussing areas of interest surrounding my research trip to Japan. Vicky took a great interest in my research project, and took some time to talk to me about Japanese culture, history and its association with modern day beauty, as well as discussing products, brands, bloggers, social media and trends.

The main points in raised in conversation were:

  • Korean Beauty trends influencing China and Japan’s beauty regimes – both skincare and cosmetics. Lisa Eldridge has been known to take her influences from Korea in regards to innovation, formula and trend, whilst working with in Japan with brands such as Shiseido and Lancome.
  • Contrasts between stereotypes of British people wanting to tan, and Japanese people wanting to ‘lighten’ or ‘whiten’ their skin. It was said by Vicky that this ‘ideal’ of Japaneseness, comes down to the history of the culture and society in regards to work, wealth and status. In the ‘olden’ times, it was known that if you had a tan, it was likely that you worked outside either farming, or building, for example, whilst if you had ‘white’ skin, you would be indoors, leading one to the assumption of one’s education, superior job role and high class status. It was not seen as a good thing to have a tan, and this ‘ideal’ has carried on through to present day, further pushed with the globalisation of celebrity, culture, international brands, publishing/advertising, communication and social media. Hierarchy and sense of ‘place’ are known in Japan to be respected, and it was said that no one wants to be seen at the bottom of the hierarchy, whether it be in society or at work. This allows for markets such as ‘skin-lightening’ products and fashion magazines to become readily available, with one then being able to buy into a sense of better being, belonging and status, being accepted as one of ‘them’, opposed to being perceived as ‘one of us’ in contrast. This idea is also discussed in Mikiko Ashikari’s Journal, ‘Cultivating Japanese Whiteness’ (2005).

This is also working toward the following objectives:

1. To understand the ways in which Social Media and Magazines can affect self-perceptions and issues:

A) With body image (Females, 18-24)

B) With body image on a cross-cultural scale (Females, 18-24; Tokyo, Japan).

3. To work with and interview those both actively working in the Fashion and Beauty Industries, and those on a consumer/follower/user basis, to compare behaviours and perspectives in relation to body image and self-perceptions.