Source: Marie Claire, June 2017. News Feed.
Source: Marie Claire, June 2017. News Feed.
To help with time management now I am working full time, I have put together a revised schedule to help with finishing off this project to the best of my ability. I do not have free time in the day as I did in the previous modules, so planning to this extent helps me to see in advance how my project will be managed and come to complete fruition. Below shows a list of things to be completed in order to get my magazine completed and to print. I have also included any exhibtions or relevant reading whih will help with my magazine or blog.
I have worked out when the above will be completed in order to get the magazine to print, the week commencing 10th July.
Week commencing 29th May:
Week commencing 5th June:
Week commencing 12th June:
Week commencing 19th June:
Week commencing 23rd June:
Week commencing 3rd July:
Week commencing 10th July:
Post 10th of July, I want to focus on my blog and photographing the magazine when it returns to me (for website, portfolio and ‘design boards’ for submission), whilst also focusing more on professional context and how the magazine can be promoted, sending digital versions to magazine stockists locally, nationally and internationally to see if they would like to place an order for any printed copies.
Below shows a list of notes made in my most recent tutorial with my tutor. I am hoping to revise the magazine and reschedule in order to fit in several points noted below to strengthen the magazine and its content.
Initially Nicole Takahashi was going to write an article regarding blogger culture in Japan and the differences between blogging in the West, however due to time constraints this has not be able to happen, and instead a question and answer interview has been included in the magazine instead. The article discusses beauty products and regimes contrasting East and Western culture, and takes a different perspective to that originally planned, however feel this has worked out to the advantage of the magazine adding a different context not previously discussed.
In support of this, Nicole has sent over a selection of images for me to use in the magazine. These can be shown below, and contribute to the collaborative nature of the magazine.
The Industry Magazine Screenshots:
East Meets West: A Sourcebook of Beauty Trends Screenshots:
Source: Danielle Muntyan Design
I came across this article on the Huffington Post, and really felt empowered when reading this and Maria’s perspective on the male-gaze in an era where we are gaze-dependant for our reassurance, social media traits and in magazines and advertising alike. The gaze in present day, seems to dominate every aspect of our life and can establish how we feel about ourselves based on how we are perceived by those giving the ‘gaze’, whether it be male, OR female, especially since the rise of social media outlets. This is somewhat discussed in Maria’s article, and has inspired me to write my own article regarding this for my FMP magazine.
The following article has been taken from Huffington Post, and can be found here.
Growing up, I attended an all-girls school. Although I hated it for depriving me of interaction with boys at a time when fascination with the opposite sex peaks, in retrospect I’m thankful that it shielded me from the “male gaze.” Arguably, sometimes the female gaze upon females is much worse, but at least there’s a sense of solidarity substituted for the entitlement and objectification experienced with the male gaze, the dominant gaze, perpetuated in much of media and culture. Invisibly determining the way we women relate to ourselves and establish our worth, it’s a gaze so omnipresent we often forget that it’s even there.
The “male gaze” is a term established by feminist film theorist Laura Mulvey in her groundbreaking essay “Visual Pleasures and Narrative Cinema” published in 1975. In it, she states, “in a world ordered by sexual imbalance, pleasure in looking has been split between active/male and passive/female. The determining male gaze projects its phantasy on to the female figure which is styled accordingly. In their traditional exhibitionist role women are simultaneously looked at and displayed, with their appearance coded for strong visual and erotic impact so they can be said to connote to-be-looked-at-ness.” In other words, the woman is always given meaning by how the male character views her. She exists purely as a spectacle for both the male character and the male viewer, with no meaning within herself.
We see this not only in almost every film, but in porn (the woman is manhandled and up for any type of physical and verbal degradation. She must put on a show for the man) and on TV (many shows are about women who desperately want a boyfriend, a cluster of women competing for the approval of one man, or women competing for validation of their beauty). As a result, women are conditioned to excuse mistreatment. We’re taught to see a shallowness of emotions and questionable morality as “masculine.” We’re taught that men interested in us for the wrong reasons are there for the right reasons. We’re taught we need to be passive in the courting ritual, to ignore our needs, to protect our relationships at all costs, to accept cat calls, to say we’re “claimed” when rejecting a man simply because we’re not interested, otherwise the truth just won’t register.
Magazines and online publications encourage us also to seek approval from men, to be the most agreeable girlfriend (refer to the “cool girl” speech in Gillian Flynn’s Gone Girl for more insight), to give everything up for a man. We aren’t given meaning unless someone wants to be with us and finds us attractive, is the perpetual message invading our consciousness. Although my single sex education did make me value the contributions and strengths of women and served to protect me from the first-hand experience of the male-gaze, it did, unproductively, create a fascination with the male-gaze. I wanted approval because I never knew what it felt like as an impressionable young girl. For a few years I played into what our culture tells us women should be all the while sensing deeply that something was wrong. I’m glad I listened to that instinct, because something is very wrong with how we’re taught to see ourselves, to see other women, and how we allow men to see us. The vulnerability of a young girl is exploited all too often and we need to teach them how to protect themselves.
Social media makes this a time when the visual begins to take prominence over the real. Instead of experiencing our lives from our own vantage points, we now see the world from how others will view and respond to our vantage points. When we are all responsible for creating our own media, we are always visible and therefore, always “seen.” The dominant gaze is more internalized than ever due to the focus on how we are perceived through the images we deliver. Establishing value on social media means accruing more followers and likes which denotes amping up what people like to see. Unfortunately because we are so indoctrinated in the male gaze, we tend to respond favorably to women who operate within it. If you take a look at the most followed women on Instagram, it’s women who have modified their entire bodies and faces who only post photos of taken of themselves, their various body parts up close, and their friends who look eerily similar. It’s not just men who are devoted followers. Their followers include countless women, too, who must look up to them as an ideal.
These “ideal” women don’t “speak,” they are only “seen.” They don’t seem to have hobbies outside of taking selfies and going to exotic locations to take more photos of themselves, showing off their latest shoes, driving expensive cars and going to clubs, yet they get the most approval in the digital world of their existence. We have to think about what these people are perpetuating and what it signifies when we approve of them. I recently had a conversation with a model who told me in her early twenties when she first was signed, she was told to speak as little as possible, to not show personality or tell anyone she was educated. She was to be a face and body, and that was it because anything further would hurt her career. Yet, this is a girl, who like all other models, are setting the beauty standards and expectations for women everywhere. If they are told not to value their intelligence, their personalities, their education, then what is it telling the rest of the girls who learn what is expected from them in society?
When women are reduced to visual pleasure, that’s when rigid expectations of body types and age are created. It’s not about their strength of character, wisdom, intellect, nor a capacity to love. This vulnerability makes it easier to sell unneeded beauty products and treatments. A focus on beauty, on being “seen” “ushers women to a place where men want them, out of the power structure. Capitalism and the patriarchy define beauty for cultural consumption, and plaster images of beauty everywhere to stir up envy and desire,” said Naomi Woolf as quoted by Nancy Etcoff in Survival of the Prettiest. To clarify, I do not think that beauty is bad and that women shouldn’t enhance their beauty for fear of being “viewed”. I think that to the extent women are emphasizing their own beauty as a reflection of the pride they take in themselves and not allowing it to become their dominant focus is a wonderful thing. We just have to separate carefully what it is we want for ourselves, and what it is we want for ourselves because of what men want from us.
Instead of naturally objectifying ourselves because it’s expected, let’s actively work on encouraging contributions, insights, ideas and voices. Let’s encourage independence, one in which we are no longer susceptible to this violating and fragmenting male gaze. We need to put a blindfold on this gaze that traps us. Only in this place will we be able to open our eyes and see ourselves clearer. It won’t matter who is looking at us when our contributions and interests are our own.
I came across this article online following seeing this reported on Sky News on the TV. I found this really relevant to my research to date, research topic and FMP.
The article discusses how Instagram has been classified as the worst app for mental health issues in young people, with Snapchat (another photo based app) coming second. I found this really interesting due to the gazes which are involved with such platforms, and how one can show themselves in a way that embodies how they want to be perceived, only showing parts of their lives which they want to share, and only sharing images which they are happy with when they look how they want to be seen, choosing what is on show to the public for judgements, praise and criticism alike.
1500 people voted from the UK alone, (between 14-24, therefore embodying my chosen target audience for my magazine of 18-24 year olds) stating that it damages their sleep patterns, body image issues, anxieties, depression, loneliness through living in a digital age and a ‘fear of missing’ out through seeing friends live their lives in ways that they may not themselves. This being said though, one can choose what they post, and may choose to curate their feed to ‘look like they have a great life’ when it retrospect they could feel depressed, anxious or lonely themselves.
In addition, and to my surprise, the majority said that positives were self-identity and self-expression, which upon further thought actually does make sense depending on how you perceive and use the app. As there are no constraints it is possible to express yourself through images and relate to similar uses which help with ones identity, however on the flip slide this could also be negative if one is constantly comparing oneself to another, causing social identity issues as discussed by Tajfel and Turner (1986), whereby in-group and out-group comparisons co-exist.
Furthermore, Rose’s “Semiology: Laying bare the prejudices beneath the smooth surface of the beautiful” (2012) book, looks at the relationship between Panopticism as founded by Foucault, and the ideology that people depict scenarios and images through photography which are often seen and recognised as ‘real’ opposed to a set up scenario, just like as discussed above in regard to Instagram and how photos can be interpreted to allow one to feel misled or as though they are missing out on a social occasion for example. This shows one how one can be influenced by imagery from social media, and how this could possibly affect ones self-perception, and the perception of others alike, as well as self-esteem and identity issues. This in turn causing a tutored sense of self, relating back to Shields and Heineken’s ‘Self-Surveying/Internalised Gaze’ theory as discussed heavily in my research during Semester 1, and Tajfel and Turner’s (1986) social identity model as discussed above, and researched in Semester 2.
I feel that these visual platforms are being recognised too late for their flaws, especially since the rise of beauty and fashion bloggers, allowing for many followers and aspiring bloggers to feel inadequate when they do not achieve the same status. In addition, Instagram has very little censoring so images of really thin models for example, can be posted with any caption or hashtags which could potentially be damaging to some depending on how these are perceived.
The following article has been taken from Sky News, and can be found here.
Last accessed: 19th May 2017.
Instagram has been rated the worst social media site for young people’s mental health, according to a survey.
The platform has the most negative impact on users and puts them at risk of suffering loneliness, depression and body image anxiety, the Royal Society for Public Health has warned.
Their words come following a survey of almost 1,500 people in the UK aged 14 to 24 which asked them to score each social media platform on its effect on health and wellbeing.
The respondents were asked to consider issues including access to expert information, emotional support, anxiety, depression, sleep, self-expression, body image, community building and bullying.
Instagram was rated the most negatively, followed by Snapchat, Facebook, Twitter and then YouTube.
Instagram was rated badly for seven of the 14 measures: its impact on sleep, body image and fear of missing out, bullying and feelings of anxiety, depression and loneliness.
But those surveyed did say there were positives – self-expression, self-identity and emotional support.
YouTube scored badly for its impact on sleep but was ranked well in nine other categories, including awareness and understanding of other people’s health experience, self-expression, loneliness, depression and emotional support.
Shirley Cramer CBE, chief executive, of the RSPH, said: “It’s interesting to see Instagram and Snapchat ranking as the worst for mental health and wellbeing – both platforms are very image-focused and it appears they may be driving feelings of inadequacy and anxiety in young people.
“As the evidence grows that there may be potential harms from heavy use of social media, and as we upgrade the status of mental health within society, it is important that we have checks and balances in place to make social media less of a wild west when it comes to young people’s mental health and wellbeing.”
Dr Becky Inkster, honorary research fellow, University of Cambridge, said: “Young people sometimes feel more comfortable talking about personal issues online.
“As health professionals we must make every attempt to understand modern youth culture expressions, lexicons, and terms to better connect with their thoughts and feelings.”
Professor Sir Simon Wessely, president of the Royal College of Psychiatrists, told The Guardian: “I am sure that social media plays a role in unhappiness, but it has as many benefits as it does negatives.
“We need to teach children how to cope with all aspects of social media – good and bad – to prepare them for an increasingly digitised world.
“There is real danger in blaming the medium for the message.”
Instagram’s website says it has more than 600 million active monthly users.
Sky News has approached Instagram for a response.
Rose (2012) Semiology: Laying bare the prejudices beneath the smooth surface of the beautiful, p.107-121.
I came across this article online, and found this absolutely fascinating and infuriating, yet extremely relevant to my practice.
The article discusses how a Western model whom is between the size of UK 4-6, was told she was “too big” to walk the Louis Vuitton catwalk show in Japan. I found this interesting in regard to my research carried out regarding Japan, both in person and in regard to academic reading. Japanese culture within the fashion industries still relies heavily on Western models and design houses to keep their consumer culture running and turning over monies, whilst enforcing an aspirational ideal for the Japanese to look up to; slender figures, long legs and pale skin. I found the model shown below a stereotypical Western female to be projected and used in Japan – blonde hair, slender, pale and with long legs, therefore found it fascinating that she was told she is still ‘too big’, when in reality, she isn’t going to be any smaller without being extremely ill, and be pointed at for possibly having an eating disorder as a result of being forced into being thinner by agencies. Yes, the Japanese women have small, petite figures, but this model has everything that a Japanese woman would aspire to and is typical of whom is featured in Internationalised magazines, i.e. Vogue. It was found during my research in Japan, whilst interviewing Vogue, that European/Western design houses such as Louis Vuitton have to maintain a standard internationally in regard to model-use, advertising, merchandising etc, however this doesn’t change how she could be the right size for the UK for instance but not for Japan. I find this really worrying that in 2017, models are still feeling immense pressures from their agencies and clients to project an unattainable and unmaintainable figure; even for themselves; let alone the audience. And with that, an image and figure which is unhealthy and potentially mentally damaging to self-esteem, body image and perception issues.
The following article has been taken from BBC Newsbeat, and can be found here.
Last accessed: 19th May 2017.
A 20-year-old Danish model claims she was dropped from a Louis Vuitton show because she was “too big” – despite only being size 4-6.
Ulrikke Hoyer says she was told by casting agents to “drink only water for the next 24 hours” before a fitting.
But she says the fitting never happened because she was dropped by the agent.
In an Instagram post Hoyer says she was told she had “a very bloated stomach”, a “bloated face” and was urged to “starve” herself.
“I am glad I’m 20 years old… and not a 15 year old girl, who are new to this and unsure about herself, because I have no doubt that I would then have ended up very sick and scarred,” Hoyer wrote on Instagram.
The show, which was on 14 May, took place in Kyoto in Japan.
Ulrikke Hoyer says that she went for a fitting in Paris a few weeks before the show “and before I even got back into my own clothes they confirmed me to the show”.
She says in a longer Facebook post that she was “happy to know that even though I wasn’t in my skinniest ‘show-shape’ Louis Vuitton would still have me in their show”.
She says that by the time she got to Japan, her waist was smaller than in the first fitting.
But she says it was after she tried on some outfits that she was told to “only drink water for the next 24 hours”.
In her Facebook post she writes: “That same evening Louis Vuitton had arranged a nice dinner and karaoke for all the models.
“I stayed home hungry in bed, because I didn’t want to sit and eat in front of women who had just expressed that I did not need food.
“I woke up at 2am and was extremely hungry. The breakfast started at 6:30am – I had the absolute minimum.
“I was afraid to meet [the casting agent] so my luck she didn’t arrive until 8am, when my plate was taken off the table.
“She said good morning to me and the other girls and then looked at me, then down on my non-existent plate and up at me again.
“She was checking if I had been eating food.”
Ulrikke Hoyer says that her background in playing tennis from a young age means that she has a good understanding of nutrition.
“I also know that the demands and expectations that is given to the high end fashion models in the industry are often completely unattainable and directly damaging to the human body,” she says.
“I cannot accept the ‘normality’ in the behaviour of people like this.
“They find pleasure in power over young girls and will go to the extreme to force an eating disorder on you.”
Louis Vuitton has been contacted by Newsbeat for a comment but hasn’t responded yet.